Pattern Review – BWOF 4-2009 106 Coat

Pattern Description: From Burda, “Keep your fashion cool in this trendy garment that’s as light as a jacket and as elegant as a coat. It‘s slightly flared and made up in popular piqué.”

Sizing: 38-46. I made a 40

Fabric Used: Stretch floral cotton (sold out, sorry) from Gorgeous Fabrics

Needle/Notions Used: Stretch 75/11 needle. Interfacing from Sew Exciting, two 1.5 inch (big uns!) snaps from Botani, silk duppioni.

Did it look like the photo or drawing when you got through? Better!

How were the instructions? Burda WOF typical – cursory at best. I didn’t use them, since the pattern is well drafted and goes together easily.

Construction Notes: This is your basic raglan sleeve coat with an interesting inset variation on the front pieces. The inset has a very sharp corner. It’s important to staystitch the inside corner of the inset. I didn’t get a decent picture of it.

I added 1/2 inch seam allowances to all major seams and 1/4 inch seam allowances to the facings. I used 1 1/2 inch hems. The pocket edges are curved, so you need to stabilize them. Burda recommends Vilene tape, which is hard to come by in the US. Instead, I used the selvage of silk duppioni. It curves beautifully and doesn’t add bulk. I sewed it just inside the seam.
Several people noted that the model shown in the magazine looks like the edges are unfinished. I thought they looked like they were serged, but I had decided before cutting out the pattern that I would use a mock Hong Kong finish on all the seam allowances, since this coat is unlined. I used a bright red silk duppioni.
I used the same finish on the edges of the facings and the hems. I also understitched the collar facings and the pockets:

I was also pleased with the pattern matching I did across the front of the coat, and on the pockets. The left one was spot on. The right one was close, but not quite as good as the left.

Any changes? Nope.

Likes/Dislikes: I like the shape and the interesting seaming on the front. I really didn’t dislike anything about this coat. If the weather ever warms up around here, it will be fun to toss on over a LBD or jeans for kicking around.

Would you do it again? Would you recommend it? I doubt I will do it again. I’m already thinking about my next project – a YSL inspired jacket made with a Linton Tweed I bought in New York. But I do recommend it.

Conclusion: A fun, easy coat that has cool details. I need to buy an awesome belt (I’m thinking red patent leather) to set it off. Here’s the finished coat.
I think it looks much cooler open, and it looks really good over trouser jeans and high heels. Fun for the spring!

About Gorgeous Things

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