… I really do practice what I preach.
Yesterday Sewing Diva Phyllis came up to the studio and we worked on projects. She worked on test samples for her Chado Ralph Rucci dress. It is going to be gorgeous! I made a muslin of the Burda dress. Phyllis helped me fit it. Before I made the muslin, I did an FBA on the pattern itself, since I knew already that I would need it. I put it on and Phyllis pinned it for me. I’m really falling more and more in love with Burda patterns, both the BWOF and the printed ones. They do some very nice RTW and designer inspired touches that the Big 4 don’t even try. And they fit me pretty well right out of the chute. This dress needed a couple of small adjustments, and Phyllis pinned them in for me.
One side note here. When I try on a muslin, I like to try it on and adjust it with the seam allowances on the outside. That makes it easier to pin exactly the way you want it to be shaped, and increases your accuracy. And since it’s a muslin (not wearable 🙂 ), no one will care if your seams are exposed. You can see here where Phyllis pinned the bodice for me to eliminate excess fabric above the bust:
I used a marker to rough in the new seamlines. Later I trued up the lines with a French curve.
The second thing she did was adjust very slightly in the back. I don’t have a swayback, but she pinned just a little out of the Center-Back-to-Side-Back seams, tapering out to nothing at the other seams. This makes it fall perfectly over my, um, posterior.
Once the muslin was adjusted, I carefully took it apart at the seams and pressed it flat. The bonus, and yet another reason I love muslins, is because when you take them apart, lo and behold, you get a full-body pattern. You can just lay it out on your fabric and start cutting. No need to pick up a piece, flip it over and cut. It also allows you to cut your fashion fabric in a single layer. This enables you to save on fabric over a double thickness pattern layout, and it makes it easy to ensure your fabric and pattern piece are on grain. Check it out – no guesswork, and very little hassle.
Some folks may be wondering why I’m going on and on about the wonderfulness of muslins. Because I really think they are great, that’s why! After I did my post on (un)Wearable Muslins, a friend pointed out to me that there was a discussion about them, which got rather heated on both sides, on a public forum. Muslins must have been in the air for the past week. I really believe in them. They give great results. Do you need to do a muslin for every single garment? Hell no! But for the ones you care about, or for something you hope to have for a long time, a muslin is worth every bit of effort you put into it.
Okay, soapbox (actually, I’m trying to make it more of a sales pitch than a soapbox) aside. Now I can get to work on sewing my dress. Hopefully I’ll have some good progress over the next day or so.
Oh and on a very happy note, DH started his new job today!!!