Sewing with Cashmere

I’m working on Vogue 8548, and while progress is slower than I want (life gets in the way, sigh), I can share some tips with you. I’m making the coat out of some cashmere that has been in my stash for several years. It’s from the same mill as Our Cashmere Coating in Black.

When working with cashmere (this is 100% cashmere, without any wool in it), you need to treat it very carefully. It sews up like a dream, but it is really easy to press it to death. Cashmere will have a tendency to leave impressions at the seamline, and it shines very easily. But with a bit of care, a light touch, and a lot of steam, it yields beautiful results.

Use a Press Cloth
When pressing cashmere, make sure you use a press cloth. I prefer silk organza. I use a dry iron, and I mist the press cloth lightly with water before applying the iron.

When pressing, use very little pressure on your fabric. Treat cashmere like a napped fabric. Don’t press down hard or you’ll leave iron and/or seam impressions.

Point Press Seam Allowances
Point pressing simply means that you use only the point of your iron to press an area. This is also sometimes called “couture pressing”. The reason to do this is to keep from leaving indentations.

I don’t know if it’s very clear from this picture, but the iron is angled slightly so only the point of the iron actually touches the fabric/press cloth. Use lots of steam to set your pressing.

Clip Like it was Coupons
The main design feature of this coat is a gracefully curved neckline that stands away from the body. To make sure that your neckline stands the way you want, clip copiously along the curve before pressing the seam open.

Understitch the Lining
The lining in the sleeves and skirt of this coat comes right to the edge. There is no facing. The view that I am making is topstitched, but to make sure that the lining stays in place, I recommend that you understitch the lining close to the hem before topstitching in place. This will ensure you don’t have any “peep out” of your lining at the hems or edges of your coat. Here you can see the topstitching on the outside of the sleeves and the understitching as well as the topstitching on the inside.

There’s lots more to be done to finish the coat, and I’ll post as I go. In the meantime, I’m tired, so I’m off to sleep. Good night and happy sewing!

About Gorgeous Things

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