Pattern Review – HotPatterns Jeanius Jeans

Okay! After a few days, one false start (more on that later) and several kid-based interruptions later, they are done! And I reduced a fair amount of stash in the bargain, so I am happy.

Pattern Description: From the HotPatterns Website: “Fits like your favorite Pants, styled like your favorite denims, these totally F-A-B-U-L-O-U-S Trouser Jeans are designed for a medium-weight denim, but you could also use corduroy, twill, or firm velvet.
Trouser Jeans feature classic Jeans styling, with a contoured waistband, belt carriers, & front fly. Front has scooped pockets and ticket pocket; back has classic jeans yoke and patch pockets. Topstitching gives these a funky look. Jeans sit 1½” below the natural waist at the front, and 1” below the natural waist at the back for a super-flattering fit.
These great Trouser Jeans are your go-to choice when you want to look sharp, but need to be comfortable. Wear them with your favorite Sweater, Top, Blouse, Jacket or T-shirt for 24/7 chic. Jeanius!”

Sizing: 6-26. I made a 10.

How’d it look compared to the pattern envelope? Reasonably close. I was pleased with the way they turned out.

How were the instructions? Let me say that HotPatterns has now added illustrations to their instructions. Yay! That was good. The fly instructions might be a little confusing to newbies, but they weren’t bad. In fact, they were clearer than some fly instructions that I’ve seen in other patterns. But I always recommend that you pull out a good reference on fly zipper insertion, and my favorite is in the Vogue Book of Sewing.

Any issues (good or bad)? Well, have a seat, this is a good one. Everything was going along swimmingly. The pattern is quite well drafted, and it was going together well. This is really a fitting muslin, but I decided to do some cool jeans finishing on these pants anyway. So I was finishing my seams with a twin needle, and serging the edges (not in that order) and doing all sorts of cool stuff. This morning I sewed the inseam together, then I pinned the side seams together and – uh oh, different lengths from front to back. Significantly different. I sent an email to Trudy, and she called me up. We got out our measuring tapes on either end of the phone line and compared measurements. Hers were 1 1/4 inch different than mine. And here, dear reader, is the part where I say ‘you know, every time I start believing my own BS, I do something totally boneheaded that reminds me that it is, after all, BS.’ This was no exception. You know what I, Ann Steeves, the Original Sewing Diva, did? I put the yoke in backwards! Yes, I sewed the yoke in completely wrong, what should have been at the center back was at the side seam, and vice versa. So, poor Trudy’s heart got an aerobic workout without ever leaving her desk, and I felt like a total ditz brain. Oh yes, then I spent the next three hours ripping out beautifully finished seams and re-sewing them.

Other than that? The pattern went together beautifully. No problems. The notches on the waistband didn’t line up exactly, but the waistband seams all lined up beautifully. I told Trudy and she was going to fix the notches on the next print run. But you don’t really need them, and it doesn’t affect construction.

Fabric Used: Stash reduction, baby! I used some denim that has been in my stash for so long that I have no idea where it came from. For the lining of the pockets and the waistband I used some cotton batik that I bought at Androsia on Grand Bahama Island about 5 years ago.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None. This was the fitting muslin. I did change the order of construction on the pants to make them a little more jeansy. I sewed the inseam first and then used a double needle stitch on that. Then I sewed the side seams. The instructions tell you to sew the pockets on the back after the rest of the jeans are finished. I recommend sewing them on right after you have joined the yoke to the back, before sewing the inseam or side seams. That makes your life much easier.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it? Oh yes! I think I’ll make it again soon. They are very comfortable and I’m going to wear these to dinner tonight.

Conclusion: It’s a winner!

Here are some pictures

and back:

10/28/07 Updated to show the full pant on me so you can see how wide the pants are. The legs are straight. The line drawing gives a very good approximation of the finished product.

Not sure what’s up next. But now it’s Miller time!

Happy sewing!

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