I managed to get some time to sew this weekend, finally! So I decided to make up the classic New Look mock-wrap. This is one of New Look’s blockbuster patterns. There are at least 20 reviews for it on PatternReview, and countless others on blogs and other sites. I have had it in my stash for quite some time, and when the weather turned sour this weekend, I pulled it out and started cutting.
Pattern Description: Wardrobe of mock-wrap style dresses with sleeve and collar variations. I made view D, the sleeveless, collarless version.
Fabric Used: ‘Totally Rad’ jersey from (of course) Gorgeous Fabrics. I actually had significantly less than the pattern called for, but I managed to eke out a dress from it without too much trouble. If I were to do it again, I’d use more fabric and do a really stellar job of matching the chevrons across all the seams. As it is, most people won’t notice.
What did you like/dislike about this pattern? I have always liked the lines of this dress. I really like the ruching at the left front seam. I like the way it looks on almost everybody. I also am intrigued by the interesting princess seaming. The side of the bodice has a very interesting structure. It’s a single piece for the front/back side. I also Like the back skirt. It has a CB seam and wraps around under the side bodice piece to connect with the front. It’s a very neat effect!
Changes to the Design or Pattern: I did a FBA on the pattern (that’s a subject for another post). The instructions have you turn the hem allowance at the armholes under and do a narrow hem on it. I opted instead to cut a facing for the armholes. I think it gives a cleaner look.
One interesting note is that the front pattern piece is cut on grain per the pattern markings, but the ruching pulls the print so it goes off at an angle. You may want to play around with this on your fabric, or use a fabric that has a less striking print. But I really love it, and on me, it’s better looking than it is on my mannequin.
Recommend it? Absolutely. This is a great pattern. It goes together beautifully, and the result is stunning. I will probably make several versions of this. I am going to DC this weekend, and I’ll wear this for a dinner we’re going to.
Lisette M and Karla both bring up great questions. Lisette asks about gaposis. The way I dealt with this is to use the tip I used on my Cosmo Dress version 2. I cut a piece of 1/4 inch elastic, the length of the facing/neckline seam, less 2 inches. After sewing the facing to the neckline, I then sew the elastic to the facing, stretching the elastic to fit the length. Once this is sewn, it pulls in the neckline just a little bit, and keeps it from gapping. You can also achieve the same effect by cutting your facing 1-2 inches shorter than your neckline and pin-easing the neckline onto the facing.
Karla asks about the sizing. Karla, I used my standard size 14, It actually fits well, but I have very broad shoulders. I have noted with New Look patterns that they are built for people with broad shoulders. I don’t need to do huge alterations on them, but that’s just me.